Een
deukhoed is een
vilten hoed die
voornamelijk door mannen gedragen wordt. De hoed komt in vrijwel
alle kleuren voor, maar bruin, grijs en zwart zijn het meest
gangbaar.
De hoed werd rond 1890 geïntroduceerd. Net als de bolhoed
genoot de deukhoed vooral van de jaren
twintig tot de jaren
zestig populariteit, met name bij de middenklasse. Eind jaren
vijftig raakte de deukhoed langzaam uit de mode.
De hoed wordt soms geassocieerd met gangsters tijdens de
drooglegging en de
Grote Depressie. In Hollywoodfilms uit de
jaren veertig werd de hoed veel gebruikt door
acteurs die privédetectives, criminelen of andere "harde jongens"
moesten spelen. Hierbij werd de deukhoed meestal gedragen in
combinatie met een lange regenjas.
Le Pork Pie Hat est une forme de
chapeau créée dans les années 30 et portée surtout dans les années
30 et 40.
Il connait aujourd´hui un franc regain de popularité et, est,
depuis la fin du siècle dernier et depuis le tout début des années
2000, principalement en France et en Europe, mais aussi aux Etats
Unis, en Australie et au Japon, à l´origine du renouveau du chapeau
à petits bords. Son nom provient d´une ressemblance avec un plat
culinaire d´origine britannique : la
"tarte au
porc" .
1
Les premiers chapeaux qui ont été appelés "Pork pie
hat", étaient des chapeaux portés principalement par des
femmes américaines et anglaises dans les années 1830 durant la
guerre de sécession. Il s´agit d´un petit chapeau rond, avec de
petits bords relevés aux extrémités, et dont la surface, du haut de
calotte, basse et plate est marquée par une incision circulaire à
son pourtour. Il est, à l´époque, fréquemment porté avec une petite
plume, insérée sous son ruban, sur le côté.
Le chapeau "Pork Pie" est, dès l´origine, une forme de chapeau
et en aucun cas une matière. Il peut se décliner dans toutes les
matières : par exemple, pour l´été : en toile de coton,
en paille (en jonc, en raffia... ou plus noblement en sisal, voire
en panama) etc. Pour l´hiver : en feutre (de laine ou, de poil
de lapin), en laine ou autre tissus ...
Seul un chapelier de métier pourra vous orienter en connaissance
de cause.
L´acteur américain Buster Keaton participe grandement à la
célébrité de ce chapeau. Le chapeau "Pork Pie" apparait en
Grande-Bretagne en tant que chapeau d´homme au tout début du XXème
siècle dans le style de la mode man-about-town2
Le "pork pie hat" connait son apogée durant la Grande Dépression. En effet, de nombreuses
célébrités américaines le portent à l´époque dont, notamment, outre
Buster Keaton, : l´architecte de renom : Frank Lloyd Wright et surtout le
saxophoniste de jazz Lester Young. Le fameux standard de jazz
Goodbye Pork Pie Hat composé
en 1989 par Charles Mingus 3
pour ce même Lester Young, contribua largement à la célébrité et à
la réputation du chapeau.
Après la fin de la Seconde Guerre mondiale la popularité du
"pork pie hat" diminue quelque peu, mais perdure notamment en
raison de sa connexion avec le "Zoot
suit". Et aussi en association avec la culture musicale
afro-américaine, notamment le jazz, le blues et le ska qui remettra
"le petit chapeau" au gout du jour à la fin des années 50; et
surtout avec un retour en force en 1979 et au début des années 80
avec notamment les formations musicales ska: The Specials, Madness, The
Beat, The Selecter.... Le petit chapeau "pork
pie hat" se décline alors en "two tone" (avec un ruban à damier noir
& blanc) symbolisant l´Antiracisme et la communion de toutes les
couleurs de peau. Il est alors associé, à la mouvance
punk-révolutionnaire de gauche (comme The
Clash), et radicalement opposé à tout mouvement pseudo-punk
d´extrême droite, raciste, voire Néo-nazi.
A pork pie hat is a term used to refer to three or
four different styles of hat that have been popular in one context
or another since the middle nineteenth century but all of which
bear superficial resemblance to a culinary pork pie
dish.[1]
The first hat to be called a pork pie was a hat worn primarily by
American and English women beginning around 1830 and lasting
through the American Civil War. It consisted of a
small round hat with a narrow curled-up brim, a low flat or
slightly domed crown with a crease running around the inside top
edge, and usually with a ribbon or hatband fastened around the
shoulder where the crown joined the brim.[2]
It was often worn with a small feather or two attached to a bow on
one side of the hat. Such hats might be made of any number of
materials (straw, felt, cotton canvas covered in silk,
etc.)—what made them "pork pies" was the shape and crease of
the crown and the narrowness of the brim (sometimes called a
"stingy brim" in reference to its brevity).
The pork pie began to appear in Britain as a man´s hat not long
after the turn of the century in the fashion style of the
man-about-town, but its resurgence
in the United States in the 1920s is credited to the silent film
actor Buster Keaton who wore them in many of his
films.[3]
The hats from his films were ones the actor made himself by
converting Fedoras and other hats into pork pies,[4]
creating more than a thousand in his lifetime.[5]
This kind of pork pie had a very flat top and similar short flat
brim.
Arguably the heyday of the pork pie hat occurred during the
Great Depression. In this incarnation, the
pork pie regained its snap brim and increased slightly in height.
The dished crown of such hats became known among milliners as "telescopic crowns" or "tight
telescopes" because when worn the top could be made to pop up
slightly.[6]
Furthermore, as stated in a newspaper clipping from the mid-1930s:
"The true pork pie hat is so made that it cannot be worn
successfully except when telescoped." The same clipping refers to
the hat also as "the bi crowned".[7]
Among famous wearers of the pork pie during this era are Frank Lloyd Wright, whose pork pie hat had
a very wide brim and rather tall crown. Also known for his tendency
to wear such a hat was saxophonist Lester Young, for whom the jazz standard "Goodbye Pork Pie Hat" was written. In
African American culture in the 1940s the pork pie—flashy,
feathered, color-coordinated—became associated with the
zoot suit. By 1944 the hat was even prevalent in
New Guinea.[8]
After the end of World War II the pork pie´s broad popularity
declined somewhat, though as a result of the zoot
suit connection it continued its association with African
American music culture, particularly jazz,
blues and ska. Lester Young, whose career as a jazz saxophonist
spans from the mid 1920s to the late 1950s, regularly wore a pork
pie hat during his performances, and after his death the composer
Charles Mingus wrote an elegy for him titled
"Goodbye Pork Pie Hat". Young´s
pork pie had a broader brim than seen in earlier styles but
retained the definitive round, flat, creased crown.
In television between 1951 and 1955, Art
Carney frequently wore one in his characterization of Ed Norton
in The Honeymooners, and in Puerto Rico the actor Joaquín Monserrat, known as
Pacheco, was the host of many children´s 1950s TV shows
and was known for his straw pork pie hat and bow
tie—in this incarnation, the pork pie returned to its
Buster Keaton style with rigidly flat brim and extremely low flat
crown.
In the 1960s in Jamaica, the "rude
boy" subculture popularized the hat and brought it back into
style in the United Kingdom, thereby influencing its occasional
appearance in the mod subculture.
The porkpie hat enjoyed a slight resurgence in exposure and
popularity after Gene Hackman´s character Jimmy "Popeye" Doyle wore one in the 1971 film
The French
Connection.[9]
Doyle was based on real-life policeman Eddie
Egan, who played the captain in the film, and his exploits.
Egan was famous all his life for wearing a pork pie hat, and
refused to surrender his hat to Gene Hackman to wear in the film.
The producers were forced to obtain Hackman´s hat
elsewhere.[10]
At about the same time, Robert De Niro wore a pork pie hat in the 1973
film Mean Streets (the same hat he wore
when he auditioned for the film).[11]
A trilby hat (commonly called a
trilby) is a narrow-brimmed type of hat. The trilby
was once viewed as the rich man´s favored hat; it is sometimes
called the "brown trilby" in England[1]
and is frequently seen at the horse races. The London hat company
Lock and Co. describes the trilby as having a "shorter [viz.,
narrower] brim which is angled down [snapped down] at the front and
slightly turned up at the back" versus the fedora´s
"wider brim which is more level [flatter]." The trilby also has a
slightly shorter crown than a typical fedora design.[2]
The hat´s name derives from the stage adaptation of George du Maurier´s 1894 novel Trilby. A hat of this style was worn in
the first London production of the play, and promptly came to be
called "a Trilby hat".[3][dead
link][4]
Traditionally it is made from rabbit hair felt, but is
usually made from other materials, such as tweed, straw,
wool
and wool/nylon blends. The hat reached its zenith of common
popularity in the 1960s; the lower head clearance in American
automobiles made it impractical to wear a hat with a tall crown
while driving. It faded from popularity in the 1970s when any type
of men´s headwear went out of fashion, and men´s fashion instead
began focusing on highly maintained hairstyles.
The hat saw a resurgence in popularity in the early 1980s, when
it was marketed to both men and women in an attempt to capitalize
on a retro fashion trend.[5]
In shape it resembles the Tyrolean hat.
A fedora /fɨˈdɔərə/
is a felt hat with a wide brim and indented crown.[1][2]
It is typically creased lengthwise down the crown and "pinched" near the front on both
sides.[3]
Fedoras can also be creased with teardrop crowns, diamond crowns,
center dents, and others, and the positioning of pinches can vary.
The typical crown height is 4.5 inches (11 cm).
The brim is usually approximately 2.5 inches (6.4 cm) wide,
but may be wider,[1]
can be left "raw edged" (left as cut), finished with a sewn
overwelt or underwelt, or bound with a
trim-ribbon.
The term fedora was in use as early as 1891. Its
popularity soared, and eventually it eclipsed the similar-looking
homburg.[1]
The word fedora comes from the title of an 1882 play by
dramatist Victorien Sardou, Fédora being written for Sarah Bernhardt.[4]
The play was first performed in the United States in 1889.
Bernhardt played Princess Fédora, the heroine of the play. During
the play, Bernhardt – a notorious cross-dresser – wore a center-creased,
soft brimmed hat. The hat was fashionable for women, and the
women´s rights movement adopted it as a symbol.[5][2]
After Prince Edward of Britain started wearing them in 1924, it
became popular among men for its stylishness and its ability to
protect the wearer´s head from the wind and weather.[2][5]
Since the early part of the 20th century, many Haredi and other Orthodox Jews have made
black fedoras normative to their daily wear.[6]
Fedoras have become widely associated with gangsters and
Prohibition, which
coincided with the height of the hat´s popularity in the 1920s to
early 1950s.[5][2]
In the second half of the 1950s, it fell out of favor in a shift
towards more informal clothing styles.[2][5]
Indiana Jones re-popularized the fedora in the
Indiana Jones
franchise.[7]
American college football coach Bear Bryant could be seen on national television
wearing his trademark plaid and houndstooth fedoras. He also appeared on the
cover of Time magazine in 1980 (under a headline
reading "Supercoach") wearing a fedora.[8]
Coach Tom Landry also wore the hat while he was the head
coach of the Dallas Cowboys. It would later become
his trademark image. A cenotaph dedicated to Landry with a depiction of his
fedora was placed in the official Texas State Cemetery in Austin at the family´s request.[9]
In addition the Cowboys wore a patch on their uniforms during the
2000 season depicting Landry´s fedora.[10]
Michael Jackson frequently wore a fedora in
public appearances, concerts and video clips.[11][12]
The character Neal Caffrey can be seen wearing a fedora quite
frequently on the TV series White Collar.[citation
needed]
German anatomist Gunther von Hagens always wears a fedora
during public appearances, including dissections of bodies.[13]
The fedora hat of the 9th president of Turkey, Süleyman Demirel, was a famous part of his
image.[14]
Anecdotes surrounding his hat – until he died 90 years old
– are numerous.[citation
needed]
A homburg is a formal felt hat
characterized by a single dent running down the center of the crown
(called a "gutter crown"), a stiff brim shaped in a "kettle curl"
and a bound edge trim.
The homburg is made from stiff felt and has a grosgrain hatband and brim trim. Although the
homburg is a formal hat, it is not an alternative to the top
hat.[1]
The original homburg was of slightly more generous proportions than
the modern version.[2]
It was popularized by Edward VII after he
visited Bad
Homburg in Hesse, Germany, and brought back a hat of this
style.[3]
King Edward VII was exacting and expert in all sartorial matters.
He was therefore flattered when his hat style was copied; at times
he insisted on being copied.[4]
Anthony Eden made the dark homburg so
fashionable in the 1930s that it became known as "the Eden" on Savile Row.[5]
At his 1953 inauguration, Dwight D. Eisenhower broke with
tradition by wearing a black homburg instead of a top hat. He also
wore a homburg at his second inauguration, a hat that took three
months to craft and was dubbed the "international homburg" by
hatters since workers from ten countries participated in its
making.[6]
A
photograph or
photo is an
image created by
light
falling on a light-sensitive surface, usually
photographic film or an electronic medium
such as a
CCD or a
CMOS chip. Most photographs are created
using a
camera, which uses a
lens to focus the scene´s visible
wavelengths of light into a reproduction of what the human
eye would see.
The process and practice of creating photographs is called
photography. The word "photograph" was coined in
1839 by
Sir John Herschel and is based on the
Greek φῶς (
phos),
meaning "light", and γραφή
(
graphê), meaning "drawing, writing", together meaning
"drawing with light".
[1]
A
photograph or
photo is an
image created by
light
falling on a light-sensitive surface, usually
photographic film or an electronic medium
such as a
CCD or a
CMOS chip. Most photographs are created
using a
camera, which uses a
lens to focus the scene´s visible
wavelengths of light into a reproduction of what the human
eye would see.
The process and practice of creating photographs is called
photography. The word "photograph" was coined in
1839 by
Sir John Herschel and is based on the
Greek φῶς (
phos),
meaning "light", and γραφή
(
graphê), meaning "drawing, writing", together meaning
"drawing with light".
[1]
La photographie1
est une technique qui permet de créer des images par
l´action de la lumière. La photographie désigne aussi l´image
obtenue.
Le terme de photographie désigne également la branche des
arts graphiques qui utilise cette
technique : c´est l´« écriture de la lumière ».
La photographie a su tirer parti de nombreuses innovations
technologiques et techniques dans les domaines de l´optique, de la chimie,
de la mécanique, de l´électricité, de l´électronique et de l´informatique.
Les deux phénomènes nécessaires à l´obtention d´images
photographiques étaient pour certains connus depuis longtemps et
explicité dans le Traité d´optique. Les
réflexions d´Aristote et les travaux du père de l´optique
moderne Ibn al-Haytham, ont permis de mettre la réalité en
boîte ; il suffit de percer un « petit trou »
(sténopé) dans une chambre noire (en latin : camera obscura)
pour voir apparaître une image inversée dans le fond blanc de la
boîte. D´autre part, les alchimistes savaient que la lumière
noircissait le chlorure d´argent. Vers 1780 Jacques Charles, plus
connu pour son invention de l´aérostat gonflé à l´hydrogène, parvint à figer, mais
de façon fugitive, une silhouette obtenue par le procédé de la
chambre noire sur du papier imbibé de chlorure d´argent. Thomas Wedgwood (1771-1805) fit des
expériences analogues avec le nitrate d´argent ; il en publia un
mémoire en 1802. De son côté John Herschel en 1819 décrit
les propriétés de l´hyposulfite de sodium qui deviendra le
fixateur.
Joseph Nicéphore Niépce, un
inventeur de Chalon-sur-Saône, associe ces trois procédés
pour fixer des images (de qualité moyenne) sur des plaques
d´étain recouvertes de bitume de
Judée, sorte de goudron naturel qui possède la propriété de durcir
à la lumière (1826 ou 1827) ; la première photographie représente
une aile de sa propriété à Saint-Loup-de-Varennes en Saône-et-Loire. Nicéphore meurt en 1833 et
Louis Daguerre poursuit l´amélioration du
procédé. En découvrant le principe du développement de l´image latente, Daguerre trouve le moyen de
raccourcir le temps de pose à quelques dizaines de minutes. En
1839,
il promeut son invention auprès du savant et député François Arago, qui lui accorde son
soutien.
Ainsi, la date conventionnelle de l´invention de la photographie
est 1839, c´est la date de la présentation par Arago à
l´Académie des sciences de
l´« invention » de Daguerre, le daguerréotype. C´est en fait une amélioration
de l´invention de Niépce.
Een foto is een afbeelding op een plat vlak vervaardigd
door middel van fotografie. Een foto geeft relaties weer van
objecten, voorwerpen, mensen of dieren uit de werkelijke wereld
zoals gezien door de lens van een camera gedurende een (meestal
korte) tijdperiode.[1] De
naam fotografie werd voor het eerst genoemd door John Herschel, een Engels astronoom, en is gebaseerd op het Griekse
φώς (phos, "licht") en
γραφίς (graphis,
"pen, kwast"). In de volksmond wordt een foto ook wel een
kiekje genoemd, genoemd naar Israël Kiek.
In vergelijking met andere uitdrukkingsvormen als pictogrammen, diagrammen en kaarten, maar ook tekst is
dit wel de meest zuivere benadering (maar niet per definitie: beste
benadering) van de werkelijkheid, als de digitale nabewerking en
manipulatie uitblijft. Daarmee dragen foto´s maximaal bij aan een
juiste communicatie van het overbrengen van een
bepaalde gedachte over (een deel van) de werkelijkheid. Deze
zienswijze wordt verder toegelicht in visualisatie.
Kenmerkend is de directe relatie van de afbeelding met de
realiteit, maar dit maakt van een foto daarom nog
geen objectieve weergave van die realiteit. Een foto is altijd een
manipulatie van de realiteit, zowel door het standpunt
(perspectief), het kader, de begeleidende tekst, het moment en het
materiaal dat de fotograaf gebruikt om de foto te maken,
alswel door ingrijpen op chemische of digitale wijze in de fotografische
afbeelding door de fotograaf of anderen.
